SURFING –
FREE TOPIC
Surfing is a surface water sport in
which the wave rider, referred to as a surfer, rides on the forward or deep
face of a moving wave, which usually carries the surfer towards the shore.
Waves suitable for surfing are primarily found in the ocean, but can also
be found in lakes or rivers in the form of a standing
wave or tidal bore. However, surfers can also utilize artificial
waves such as those from boat wakes and the waves created in artificial wave
pools.
The
term surfing refers to the act of riding a wave, regardless of
whether the wave is ridden with a board or without a board, and regardless of
the stance used. The native peoples of the Pacific, for instance, surfed
waves on alaia, paipo, and other such craft, and did so on their belly and
knees. The modern-day definition of surfing, however, most often refers to a
surfer riding a wave standing up on a surfboard; this is also referred to
as stand-up surfing.
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